Christmas Markets in France
It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas in France! All across the country, Christmas markets have sprung up and will stay open throughout the month. The Christmas market tradition started among Germanic cultures during the early part of the Middle Ages as an offshoot of the festival of St. Nicholas, the patron saint of children. In early December, this celebration was marked by offerings of sweets and small gifts to children, prompting the establishment of seasonal markets where such goods would be sold.
Entrance to Christmas market at Place de Broglie, Strasbourg, France. Image credit: © Claude Truong-Ngoc / Wikimedia Commons
The first mention of such a market in what is now France was in 16th century Strasbourg. The city’s name is based on its position on the Ill and Rhine Rivers as a ‘city of roads’ that gained status as an Imperial Free City within the Holy Roman Empire in 1201. Tradespeople and merchants regularly convened for commercial fairs in Strasbourg throughout the year, bringing goods from afar and providing opportunities for local products to be more widely sold and distributed.
Strasbourg became a bastion of Protestantism in the 16th century, a trend that played a role in transforming the St. Nicolas traditions of early December into a period of several weeks during the month across which Christmas preparations, including the procurement of gifts to be given at Christmas, took place. By 1570, the seasonal market period in December was known as Christkindlmarkit in honor of the baby Jesus instead of St. Nicholas, and the tradition continued even after Strasbourg first came under French rule in 1681 when it was besieged by the forces of King Louis XIV.
The Strasbourg Christkindelsmärik, the Alsatian name for Christmas market, has persevered for nearly 500 years despite conflicts, multiple changes of governance, and the evolution of culture over time. It is one of the most well-known and beloved Christmas markets in France and Europe, attracting several million annual visitors to Strasbourg each year. The market offers locally-produced ornaments, crafts, food and drink, candles, and assorted items for celebrating the holidays or giving as gifts. The main market on the Place Kléber is famous for its towering, sparkling Christmas tree that regularly tops 100 feet as well as Glühwein / vin chaud, mulled wine whose aroma permeates the air during this time. Numerous additional Christmas markets are located throughout Strasbourg’s Grande Ȋle district and the tradition is widespread around northeastern France in other cities such as Colmar, where one of its six markets entertains the young with toys, a carousel, and visits from Père Noël, and Metz, whose Sentier des Lanternes lights up each evening, as well as in numerous smaller villages such as Eguisheim and Riquewihr.
Christmas in Colmar, France. Image credit: Tangopaso, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Christmas markets abound in every region of France, with host cities and towns showcasing their own local crafts and cuisine. French Marchés de Noël are known by different names in different places: besides Christkindelsmärik in Strasbourg, visitors can discover the Villages de Saint-Nicolas in Nancy, la Cité de Noël in Béthune, Hivernales in Montpellier, and Le Village de Noël in Nice to name a few. Touring Marchés de Noël remains a fascinating way to experience regional differences and learn about longstanding traditions in different areas of France, since the offerings within each tend to highlight local crafts, treats, and customs.
The Marché de Noël in the city of Lille is the largest in northern France yet exhibits a more intimate feeling in comparison with the Strasbourg Christkindelsmärik. In addition to browsing a variety of locally made crafts, visitors can ride on a carousel, a Christmas train, and an immense Ferris wheel from which riders can see beautiful views of the decorated city. The spirit of Christmas extends beyond the market’s stalls into the estaminets, which are cozy food and drink establishments that are emblematic of Lille’s culture and its roots in Flanders.
Santons in Nativity scene. Image credit: © Guillaume Piolle / CC BY 3.0
On the opposite end of France, Christmas markets in the south reflect their different histories, traditions, and products. Interestingly enough, celebrations in Nice include a Swedish Festival of Light that pays homage to Saint Lucia as well as a Ferris wheel, skating rink, open air concerts, and a life-size Nativity scene of 17 mechanical figures called Lou Presèpi. Further west toward Marseille, the Provençal Christmas markets also prominently display crèches (Nativity scenes) often with locally-made santons, ‘little saints‘ made from clay and dressed as figures from the Christmas story and as local tradespeople such as bakers and sailors. In Marseille, the annual Foire aux Santons et aux Crèches complements the city’s Christmas market and serves as one of the main attractions in the city during December. Authentic savon de Marseille, an olive-oil based natural soap, is another highlight of the Marseille market.
The list of French Christmas markets goes on and on. . . Because of them, one of the darkest months of the year is made festive with lights, joy, and longstanding traditions carried forward in communities and cities across France. Although December does not offer the most appealing weather, the variety and charms of Marchés de Noël all over France and their dedication to featuring local products and practices provides good reason to consider a visit. Just bring an extra bag!
Jeu de français
A German-style Christkindlmarket is underway in Chicago and Aurora through December 24 and in Wrigleyville until December 31, sharing some elements in common with the Christmas markets of Alsace such as stalls of ornaments, Glühwein, decorated cookies, fresh pretzels, and live entertainment. Meanwhile, keep the Christmas spirit of France going by trying to fill in the crossword below (Hint: the answer to clue #8 appears in this post).
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