Harvest Time in Burgundy
Grape harvest in Meursault, Bourgogne, France (2009). Image credit: PRA, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
From the regions around Châtillon-sur-Seine and Chablis near the town of Auxerre to the stretch of eastern France extending from Dijon southward toward Mâcon, the seasonal flurry of the grape harvest is underway. This centuries-old ritual has steeped viticulture and the traditions that surround it into Burgundian identity. Centuries of experience and knowledge, including ways to endure and adapt to natural and man-made obstacles, have helped establish Burgundy wines as some of the most renowned, most desired, and most expensive in the world today.
Bourgogne (Burgundy) wine country accounts for less than 5% of the French wine industry yet includes over 80 AOC (appellations d’origine contrôlee) designations, more than any other wine region in the country. These designations, which indicate a host of factors that contribute to the quality and identity of a particular product, are granted by geography in Bourgogne rather than by producer such that an AOC often contains multiple tracts owned and planted by different winemakers. The importance of the source of the grapes is reflected in Bourgogne wine labeling, where the appellation and location is featured more or just as prominently as the name of the producer. Along with legendary names such as Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Domaine Leflaive, and Domaine Armand Rousseau that produce sought-after grand cru and premier cru wines, thousands of Bourgogne winemakers carefully lend their expertise and personal taste to their bottles.
Chardonnay grapes after harvest. Image credit: Dan Random; original uploader was Agne27 at en.wikipedia, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Southeast of Chablis lies the Côte d’Or, which itself consists of the Côte de Nuits in the north and the Côte de Beaune to the south. These zones intersperse hilly slopes (‘côtes’) and flatter sections that all benefit from a temperate, semi-continental climate while varying in terms of soil, exposure to the sun, and drainage. While most French and global wine regions produced bottles from a blend of grapes, the vast majority of Bourgogne wines are produced from a single varietal, chiefly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Nearly half of Bourgogne wine production comes from Chardonnay grapes that are transformed into white wine and another 40% are Pinot Noir red wines.
A small portion of acreage is dedicated to Aligoté grapes used in Burgundy’s sparkling wine, Crémant de Bourgogne, and Aligoté white wines that are often mixed with crème de cassis to make Kir cocktails. At the southern end of Bourgogne, Beaujolais primarily produces red wine from the Gamay grape under its own appellations and is generally not considered to be part of Burgundy in terms of wine.
Wine consumers thus know that nearly all Bourgogne white wines contain 100% Chardonnay grapes and most Bourgogne red wines are made from Pinot Noir. Beyond the type of grape, the AOC or specific village is helpful in identifying the vineyard where the grapes were grown. Each particular Burgundy wine reflects the numerous decisions that each producer makes to show his or her taste, style, and expertise since Burgundy winemakers cannot adjust their wines by adding different grapes to balance out a particular season’s weather or other challenges that affect volumes and the characteristics of grapes. This year, the region has been plagued by damp weather and hailstorms that resulted in mildew that significantly reduced yields; however, Burgundy’s winemakers have dealt with all sorts of adverse conditions that they adapt to in order to create the wines that they bottle and release for sale.
Hôtel-Dieu, Hospices de Beaune, Bourgogne, France. Image credit: Stefan Bauer, http://www.ferras.at, CC BY-SA 2.5, via Wikimedia Commons
The hard work of harvest comes hand in hand with the spirit of cooperation and sense of purpose that winemaking entails. Once the winemaker determines the date to begin, teams of pickers harvest the grapes, mostly by hand to ensure the highest quality. Some vineyards welcome guests to assist in the 10-15 day process, guided by experienced workers. Grapes are then sorted to remove leaves, debris, and any subpar fruit before being destemmed, crushed, and fermented for a period of several days up to two weeks in oak barrels or stainless steel vats. Next is pressing and clarification to remove the skins and other solids before further fermentation and aging, often in oak barrels and sometimes in bottles.
By the third weekend in November, harvest season gives way to ‘Les Trois Glorieuses’, a uniquely Burgundian tradition that starts with a street fair on Saturday in Beaune. That evening, an invitation-only dinner hosted by the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin at the Château du Clos de Vougeot showcases Burgundian wines along with plenty of food and camaraderie. On Sunday, the Hospices de Beaune conducts its annual wine auction, a tradition since 1859. Established as a hospital for the poor in 1452, the Hospices de Beaune was the beneficiary of land donations that included prime vineyard tracts. The wines that are produced from these holdings are sold to raise funds for the maintenance of the Hospices de Beaune and local charities. Completing the trio on Monday is a luncheon called La Paulée de Meursault that runs well past sunset. For the past hundred years, this event has mirrored the medieval gatherings that monks organized to break bread and enjoy the fruits of their labor with the workers who helped them with the harvest. The entire weekend’s festivities pay homage to longstanding elements of Burgundian culture that celebrate nature and terroir, local traditions, and community through wine and food.
Jeu de français
Try the French crossword puzzle by clicking on the button below to enter or learn terms relating to wine, including several words mentioned in this blog post. Optional: Pour yourself a glass of white, red, or sparkling Burgundy wine to inspire you in your efforts.
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